How to Mount a Skateboard on your Wall
Lots of skateboarders have decks that have some sort of sentimental value… some of us have boards that we hold onto because they’re limited editions, the graphics are tight, they’re autographed, or maybe the skater just has special memories associated with the plank in question. This article will show you one of several ways to hang a board on your wall so that you can enjoy the graphic, and allow your prized possession to be a work of art.
One of the complications with hanging a board is that they don’t rest flatly on the wall… the nose and/or tail cause them to pop out a few inches, so nailing them directly is out of the question (unless you have some pretty long nails). Another problem with nailing the board directly is that you run the risk of missing the nail and smashing into the board itself… which may not matter if it’s a used board, but if you’re trying to mount a board while keeping the graphic in mint condition, consider this method. Here’s an example of two (of several) boards I recently got around to mounting:
On the left is Wayne Patrick’s pro model from Aminal Skateboards. I did the coloring for this one, so it’s a keeper. On the right is a deck that all of the Hammond and Missouri locals should know well… it was the first pro model that Small Time’s ever put out, and this particular one came from the very first batch… not to mention, it was illustrated by our very own Randy Muller. It had to go up.
First of all, you’ll need the following things:
This is beading wire… I got this at the hobby store. I paid $7 for it, but you can use fishing string or any string that will support the weight of a skateboard. This particular wire can support 12 pounds… well more than the average weight of a deck. You want to make sure that the wire or string you use can be tied easily… if it’s too stiff, it’s no good.
Nails. It doesn’t really matter which size, just as long as they don’t split or crack your walls.
Bolts and nuts. These are 10-32 bolts (pronounced ten-thirty seconds at the hardware store)… these have regular nuts (as opposed to the locknuts that come with regular mounting hardware). These are the exact same size as regular truck bolts that you probably already have at your house. For some added authenticity, you might want to go to the shop and pick up a handful of bolts there… the ones with the colored heads would look tight. Also of note: use one-inch long bolts. They’ll be easier to work with (you can do this with shorter bolts, but you’ll have to have a steady hand).
Scissors… these are for cutting the wire. Be careful with them, and if you’re a real young board collector, consider letting a parent do the cutting for you.
Your nails are no good to you without a hammer. If using a hammer isn’t your thing, find someone who knows what they’re doing and let them do the deed for you.
One thing I need to mention before I go any further… if you’re a kid, make sure you have permission to put holes in your walls. If you’re older and renting a house or apartment, make sure that putting nails around your place won’t cause you to lose your deposit!
Next step:
If you’re hanging your board vertically, use your front truck holes. If you’re hanging your board horizontally, use the holes closest to the top of your board when it’s on its side (in most cases, the first and last holes on the right side of your board).
Put your individual bolts in the opposite way that you would if you were mounting trucks (so that the nut is on the griptape side). Thread the nut onto the bolt, but don’t tighten it too far… you want to leave a gap between the nut and the deck for tying the wire. You’ll repeat this process one more time, so that you have one bolt on either side.
Take your wire (or string) and cut off a piece. I usually like to cut off a strand that’s a few inches longer than the board itself, which is way too much, but it’s easier to cut away what you don’t need rather than be stuck with too little. On one end, create a simple loop that you’ll be able to tighten down… make sure that the wire twists itself inside the loop at least once.
Place the loop around the bolt, underneath the elevated nut… then pull on the shorter end of the string so that it constricts itself underneath the nut…
Now that it’s tightened, it may be a good idea to add another loop knot (loop the short end of the wire around the bolt again, draw the wire underneath the wire on the other side of the bolt, then tighten it again).
Cut away the excess wire, and repeat the loop-knot process for the other truck bolt. When you’re done, go ahead and tighten the nuts down as far as you can.
You want the wire to be loose enough so that it can be pulled out enough to compensate for the height of your nose and tail. As a matter of personal preference, I choose to keep the wire tight enough so that the board doesn’t hang below the wire when I pick it up… I want the nail and wire to be hidden once I place it on my wall.
Find a good spot to hang your board.
With this method, one nail will do the trick. The nail will be centered behind your board, so keep that in mind.
Hang that puppy up and reminisce about the tricks that your board has taken part in.
January 7th, 2007 at 1:50 am
This may be old news to ya’ll, but there is a link to this website on the www.skateandannoy.com website. It sites this article, and the dreamland skatepark in Hammond.
January 7th, 2007 at 3:12 am
Dude, I had no clue (we’ve been out skating in NOLA most of the evening).
That’s f’ing SICK!!! Thanks for the heads up brotha!!!
April 22nd, 2009 at 7:28 pm
check out skatepuck.com - deck hangers that let you hang a deck on a wall at any angle
April 22nd, 2009 at 8:16 pm
That’s fine and all, but the example above is cheaper and also allows for hanging at any angle… even free hanging.